Manaus is the little known (even amongst Brazilians) capital city of the Brazilian state of Amazonas. Sure, a lot of people have heard of it, but the most of its tourists use it as a stop-over to go on Amazon jungle eco-tours, headed to some of the many jungle lodges or going on a fishing trip in the Amazon basin.
The reason for its relative anonymity is its isolation. Unreachable by road a good part of the year (rainy season) from the southern part of Brazil, Manaus is relatively expensive for Brazilians to visit. The newly completed (more or less) Pan-American Highway that links Manaus with Caracas, Venezuela passes through long stretches of wilderness and its main river crossings are via small wooden bridges or ferries. The Pan-Am is not paved all of the way, so during the rainy season you may find sections nearly impassable.
Manaus is a city of around 1.5 million people, situated about 300 km south of the equator and the largest city (in fact the only large city) in the huge state of Amazonas. It is located on the Rio Negro about 18 km from its junction with the Rio Solimões where together they form the Amazon River.
The "Encontro das aguas" (Meeting of the Waters) is a popular sight because the two rivers are so different in character and composition they flow side by side without mixing for several kilometers.
Manaus was the center of settlement for the people who came here during the rubber boom near the end of the 19th century which brought about massive wealth. Several examples of beautiful architecture of that period exist. The most notable of these is the Amazon Theatre. Some other examples include the Palace of Justice (1900) and the Rio Negro Palace (1900-1910).
With the end of the rubber boom, Manaus went into decline and only entered a period of renewed development in the 1950s. A turning point was reached in 1967, when the Manaus Free Zone was established by the federal government. From that date on, the capital of Amazonas has passed through great changes, becoming an important industrial center for the manufacture of electrical and electronic goods.
To really enjoy Manaus, you need to step outside of the typical tourist mode and experience the spirit of the people and possibly experience a festival. Outside of "Carnival", which is a big festival throughout Brazil (not just Rio); Boi Bumba is the region's largest and most famous festival. Boi is a style of music and dance that celebrates the history of the people of the region. The natives of the region call it a festival of folklore.
Boi Bumba takes place on the 28th, 29th and 30th of June on the island of Parintins and is a competition by 2 groups from Manaus of Boi dancers, singers and bands. Each night the 2 groups, Garantido and Caprichoso, present a pageant of sight and sound that is unlike anything outside of the region. Judges decide a winner after the completion of the 3rd night of the festival. It is a major influence on and of the region and everyone in Manaus is either a Garantido or a Caprichioso.
The Boi Bumba festival of Parantins is about 80 years old, but a newer festival of Boi has begun where the people of Manaus and visitors don't have to make the trip to Paratins. Boi Manaus takes place in October at the Sambodromo in Manaus and is a lesser-known younger sister to the boi of Paratins.
But you don't have to be in Manaus only during these times to experience the Boi. Garantido (Friday night) and Caprichoso (Saturday night) both hold weekly practice sessions at the Sambodromo for about 3 months before the Parantins festival.
Besides Carnival and Boi Bumba, there are many other smaller festivals throughout the year.
Manaus is definitely much more than just a jumping off point for eco-tours and fishing expeditions to the Amazon. It is a vibrant, exciting city filled with warm, happy, friendly, fun-loving people that make extending your stay before or after your Amazon trip worthwhile.
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